Thursday, April 23, 2009

The Great Slaw Debate

When this time of year rolls around... when it's getting warm and the leaves are turning out and it's planting time... I always get the itch.

The itch for some good barbecue.

I mean REAL barbecue.

Big ol' sammiches of pulled pork with bits of crackly skin intermixed. Hot sauce. And slaw.

Around here, slaw (cole slaw for those who don't know what I'm talking about) can be grounds for a battle.

There are some who like vinegar-based slaw. There are others who like mayonnaise-based slaw. I have known people to get into knock-down, drag-out arguments over which kind to have at their gatherings. Mayo slaw fans are die-hard. In their minds, mayo slaw is the ONLY slaw. Vinegar slaw fans are a little more forgiving. They prefer vinegar slaw, but they'll eat mayo slaw if there's nothing else. With mayo slaw fans, it's all or nothing.

Me, I like 'em both. And, of course, the real way to eat a barbecue sammich is with slaw on it. But it has to be mayonnaise slaw. If it's vinegar slaw, you eat it on the side.

I guess I'm kind of a weirdo when it comes to these things. I like slaw... but I don't like cabbage. I also like banana puddin' but I don't like bananas by themselves. Told you I was a weirdo!

Anyway, when I get the itch for barbecue, I also get the itch for some good slaw. You could call me a slaw snob, if there is such a thing. I'm rather particular about it, but only because I've experienced some wonderful slaw in my time and I've always remembered it.

Allow me to share some slaw recipes with you.

VINEGAR SLAW
½ cup sugar
½ cup cider vinegar
½ cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon celery seeds
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 large green cabbage, shredded
1 large carrot, finely shredded
(Some people add a chopped green bell pepper and a chopped medium onion to their slaw - and sometimes even a small jar of diced pimiento. I don't.)

Microwave first 7 ingredients in a 1-quart glass bowl on high for 3 to 4 minutes or until thoroughly heated, stirring once. Let cool.

In a large bowl, toss shredded cabbage with vinegar mixture. Cover and chill at least 8 hours or up to 3 days.

MAYONNAISE SLAW

½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 Tbsp. milk or buttermilk
1 medium-size green cabbage, shredded
1 large carrot, finely shredded (optional)
1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped (optional)
¼ teaspoon salt

Stir together first 4 ingredients in a large bowl. Add cabbage, optional veggies if desired, and salt - tossing to coat. Cover and chill 8 hours.

And if you're a real renegade and want something completely different, here's a wonderful German-style slaw, which is also really pretty!

RED CABBAGE SLAW

1/3 cup pineapple juice
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup oil
¼ cup lemon juice
¼ cup cider vinegar
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. hot sauce
1 large red cabbage, finely shredded
1 small Granny Smith apple, chopped
1 large carrot, shredded
1 small sweet onion, minced
5 to 6 bacon slices, cooked and crumbled

Stir together first 8 ingredients in a large bowl until sugar dissolves. Add cabbage and next 3 ingredients, tossing to coat. Cover and chill at least 1 hour. Sprinkle with bacon before serving.

This one, though, is my absolute favorite. I love Memphis barbecue and I love Memphis-style slaw. It has the best of all worlds - mayo, vinegar, mustard, and a little heat! It takes a little extra work, but it's well worth the effort.

MEMPHIS-STYLE CHOPPED SLAW

1 medium head green cabbage, cored and chopped fine
1 to 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and minced
1 carrot, peeled and shredded
1 small onion, peeled and shredded
2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup yellow mustard
1/4 cup chili sauce
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1 tsp. celery seeds
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar

Toss cabbage, jalapeño, carrot, onion, and salt in colander set over medium bowl. Let stand until wilted, about 1 hour. Rinse cabbage mixture under cold water, drain, dry well with paper towels, and transfer to large bowl.

Bring mustard, chili sauce, mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, celery seeds, and sugar to boil in saucepan over medium heat. Pour over cabbage and toss to coat. Cover with plastic and refrigerate at least one hour, or up to one day. Serve.

Dang, now I'm facing a double-whammy... homesick AND hungry!

3 comments:

  1. As far as my pulled pork sandwich, I'll definitely take it WITH slaw. I'm a fan of the mayo slaw, but to tell you the truth, I've never really had vinegar slaw, at least not that I can recall. But now, if anyone can ever tell me how to reproduce the slaw that is served at Bea's Restaurant in Chattanooga, I would be deeply indebted. Great stuff. And while they're at it, if they can tell me how they make that delicious fried chicken...


    The little dog shelter in the holler is the place to be on pork pullin' day. I learned from a Memphis champ that put a lot of his secrets in a book; rub, sauce and all. I imagine he held back a few secrets, but not enough to prevent me from making some of the most awesome pulled pork and beef brisket you ever put in your mouth. Everybody wants to visit me on pork pullin' day...

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  2. OK,I'm usually just a lurker here, but I had to speak up. I'm from middle Tennessee and my momma taught me that real slaw has a lot of mayo and onion in it, but never, EVER, and I mean EVER any sugar. Same with cornbread. In fact, I don't think I ever had sweet slaw until I went away to college, where I discovered that
    pretty much everyone eats it sweet.

    So maybe that's a weird Wilson County thing, or I guess it could possibly be a result of her growing up dirt poor on a farm and just not having any sugar. Whatever the case, I still can't eat sweet slaw to this day, which basically means I never eat slaw unless I make it.

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  3. Suzy, thanks for jumping in and leaving a comment! I don't think I've ever had may slaw that didn't have any sugar in it, but as a vinegar slaw lover, I'd certainly be glad to try it!

    This is just further evidence that slaw is big grounds for debate around here. ;)

    Hmmm, maybe we ought to have a slaw-off where everybody submits their favorite slaw recipes, then an impartial panel of judges pick their favorites? Hey, it could be as big as some of those barbecue contest, I'm betting!

    Thanks again, Suzy - hope to hear from you again soon!

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